12 Slot Li-Ion Charger made out of scrap – [En]

        My objective was to build a multi-slot Li-Ion charger from mostly scrap and unused stuff.

        The only parts that I needed to purchase are the TP4056 circuits which are around $1.5 each. They support 1A charge rate, which is perfect for my needs.

What I already had (what you will need):
– an old Computer PSU with functional 5V rail (you don’t need the 12V rail to be functional, only the 5V one). This provides sufficient current for 12 cells (12A in total). If the PSU does not support enough current, the wires will overheat, the voltage will drop too much from 5.0V and the circuits will start to flash the red LEDs.
– wood (for the case construction – you could pick a better looking piece if you’re into aesthetics)
– wooden screws (shorter than 1cm for contacts and longer than 6cm for the box) and washers that fit
– springs (recycled from old 6V large flashlight batteries – I used washers here too for better contact, but the springs are good enough on their own to make proper contact)
– copper wire – thicker 1mm diameter for common and pairs of recycled-from-CAT5e-cable for the rest of the connections battery-side (should provide 1.5A per pair, which is enough for the purpose)
– plastic parts used for slot delimitation recycled from old notebook batteries
– plastic caps on the top contacts (looks better, keeps battery better in position, helps with contact fitting)

        Tools needed:
– cordless drill for faster work (low power enough, you don’t need the top tools)
– soldering tools and materials (standard for any electronic works)

– 4h if you know very well what you’re doing and you planned well initially (I wasted a few extra minutes to switch positions for 4 of the circuits because I had 4 with blue LEDs and 8 with green LEDs and put randomly it looked bad, so I set them up as 4G-4B-4G, but that was after the initial completion of the charger)
– 8h if you need to adapt and improvise

        Time interval is considered everything from cutting the needed wood to powering up the charger.

        Part of the initial planning, given the size of my initial wood piece to be used as main case body, I calculated that there will be space for 12 slots for 18650-type cells. Based on that, I ordered the 12 circuits.

        I did some initial measurements and testing to see how things would fit generally. Distance between cells and distance between spring and upper contacts was generally fine, considering it was mostly eye-determined:
Initial size test

        I though that the cells would need a little space between them in case there are some with thicker case and to prevent heat transfer between them. So the same plastic parts I used as a trick to properly align them:

        Then, so the cells will fit nice into place, I arranged the plastic parts as needed and glued them there. This helps them stay aligned and not touch each other.
Plastic slots

        On the battery side, both + and – wires are connected separately for each cell. The UTP pair is sufficient for the required current:

        Then, I pulled them through to the other side where the circuit boards will be (I used 1.5mm drill for the holes, which was enough for the pairs to get through):

        After this step I used an ohmmeter to test if all contacts are good to go. Everything was fine, no short-circuits or any bad connections.

        Then, I soldered the circuit boards:

        On the side, I added the PSU connector:

        Now all I needed were the 2 main power wires and connections between them and the boards. I also partially aligned the circuits so that that the indicator LEDs land on the middle of the cell.
Here are the main rails and the circuits connected to them:

        I added a digital volt-meter to make it look more bomb-like (it’s nice, the more cells you add, the more the general voltage drops):

        Finally, I connected everything to the hot-wired PSU and did the first the practical test – all worked as planned:

        Primary objective achieved; I can now use the charger. What’s good about this charger is that the circuits have no over-discharge protection so I can use it to recover over-discharged cells 12 at a time.

        As a bonus later on, I’ll add a capacitor or 2 since there’s some available space near the voltage indicator and I’ll make a nice wooden outer case. I’ll update this later on.

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Windows Fail Creators Update – [En]

Although very few users actually stated that there have been improvements after updating it, I named the update in the title this, because the following may occur when you make an attempt at it:

      Critical/Severe Bugs:

Missing files during installation generates the 0x80073712 error message while trying to install the Windows 10 Fail Creators Update. Great. An installer that does not have the files needed to complete itself.

Critical driver not compatible: 0x800F0923 error message indicates that an app or driver isn’t compatible with the upgrade process. Or so they say. Usually, it’s the graphics driver. In order to declare some older video cards as ‘incompatible’, W10 removes the latest official driver and install a less functional one.

General installation errors: Error: We couldn’t complete the updates. Undoing changes. Don’t turn off your computer. / Error: Failure configuring Windows Updates. Reverting changes.
These errors are general messages that usually appear as you try to install a “quality update” as well as during a “feature update”.

Your installation may not re-activate Windows activate after the update and you will see the Windows not activated message with a 0x803F7001 error in the Settings app.

During the upgrade process, when the computer reboots to continue the installation, suddenly the 0xc00000bb error message may appear. This apparently is caused in some ASUS MBs in combination with Samsung SSDs.

BKSOD – As you go through the upgrade process or after installing the Windows 10 Fail Creators Update, there is a chance that you may end up with a black screen.

During the upgrade process to, the installation starts and after the device reboots, users may get a black screen with loading animation. The installation never completes.

On Windows Central, sometimes the 0x80070490 – 0x20003 error can occur when trying to upgrade to the Windows 10 Fail Creators Update using the Media Creation Tool, which causes the process to roll back to the previous version.

Windows 10 Fail Creators Update also installs a new version of Microsoft Edge that includes a number of ‘stuff’. However, users may constantly experience Microsoft Edge freezes while browsing the web.

You may get that your system does not meet the minimum requirements (0xC1900200 – 0x20008, 0xC1900202 – 0x20008) even if it does.

Windows 10 Fail Creators Update may declare your apps incompatible, generating the 0xC1900208 – 0x4000C error message, preventing the upgrade to complete successfully.

Windows 10 Fail Creators Update may break drivers, resulting in one of the following erros: 0xC1900101 – 0x20004; 0xC1900101 – 0x20017; 0xC1900101 – 0x2000c; 0xC1900101 – 0x30018; 0xC1900101 – 0x3000D; 0xC1900101 – 0x4000D; 0xC1900101 – 0x40017 (or other 0xC1900101 – errors).

Installation may fail due to lack of space and you will get an error similar to: 0x80070070 – 0x50011, 0x80070070 – 0x50012, 0x80070070 – 0x60000, 0x80070070. 0x80070008.

If you’re using a USB bootable media to do an in-place upgrade / clean installation with the Windows 10 Fail Creators update, the installation may fail due to it being unable to read the files on the installation media.

      Other Average Bugs:

After shutting down or restarting a device certain apps will reopen automatically during login with the Windows 10 Fail Creators Update.

If you were a participant in the Windows Insider Program and you upgraded to the Windows 10 Fail Creators Update using the latest preview, you may experience syncing problems with the Mail app or adding a new email account.

After installing the Fail Creators Update, some users have been reporting problems with the Microsoft Store app. In the Feedback Hub app, users are saying that the Store will no longer start correctly showing a “Something bad happened – Unknown layout specified in manifest” error message.

After ‘successfully’ upgrading to the Windows 10 Fail Creators Update, there is a chance that you may not be able to connect to the internet, or you may experience a very slow connection using a Wi-Fi or Ethernet adapter.

After upgrading to the Windows 10 Fail Creators Update, a number of users have been reporting a few problems with the Start menu. Users have been complaining about app icons and Live Tiles are missing, and even doing a search icons won’t come up in the result, but apps are still installed and working. Also, a few other people have said that the Start menu is simply not working after installing version 1709.

After installing the Windows 10 Fail Creators Update, you may notice in the Start menu, more specifically in the All apps list that one more app entries show up with the “ms-source:AppDisplayName”.

After installing the Windows 10 Fail Creators Update, every time you start your device the touch keyboard may automatically appear on-screen after signing in.

Starting with the Fail Creators Update, Windows 10 introduces native support for emoji but only for the US. for the rest… nothing. But you can bypass-get them if you really want.

OneDrive File On-Demand (new feature included with the Windows 10 Fail Creators Update) may be missing.

Trying to use the Media Creation Tool to upgrade to the latest release of Windows 10, may stuck your system at trying to download updates before the installation begins.

Error 0x80190001 may occur when trying to download the new feature update using Windows Update.

During the installation process of a new update, you may get an error that will prevent Windows Update from installing the latest version.

Error 0x800F0922 may occur, if communication with Microsoft update servers has a problem, or if there is not enough available space in the System Reserved partition.

Most of the above are fixable… but still… too much can go wrong.

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A murit Mihai I – in 2015 !

        A murit Mihai I … acum 2 ani !
M-am distrat ieri cînd am vazut pe toate canalele de propagandă și site-urile de ‘informare’ mare super-știre cum că a murit ‘Regele’. I-auzi…o fi inviat și a murit iar. S-o lămurim:

        În primul rănd, se pare că a murit de acum 2 ani.
Atît un înalt funcționar administrativ al Patriarhiei Române cît și un prieten apropiat al principelui Nicolae au confirmat asta. Se pare ca Mihai I a murit în 2015 iar trupul său a fost pus la conservat într-o incintă specială privată de lîngă Zurich.
Motivul principal pentru care s-a ascuns moartea sa e destul de evident: s-a dorit să se scape de moștenitorii nedoriți (de catre cine vedeți mai jos).

Ia să vedem și ceva indicii și chestii foarte suspecte care confirmă cele menționate mai sus:

– Ultima apariție publică a lui Mihai a fost în 19 noiembrie 2014. El a mai ‘trăit’ în ultimii 2 ani doar prin comunicate.

– Incercarea insistentă de acoperire a dispariției lui Mihai din spațiul public de către ‘Casa Regală’ prin comunicate de presă, scrisori semnate de Mihai sau fotografii (care ulterior s-a demonstrat ca fiind făcute cu un an înainte și nu la data la care ‘Casa Regală’ încercă să convingă publicul că ar fi fost fâcute).

– Răspunsul dat de ‘Casa Regală’ la solicitarea în scris a unui cetătean al României care a avut curajul să intrebe oficial, negru pe alb, dacă Mihai este viu sau mort. Răspunsul ‘Casei Regale’ a fost ”nu comentăm pe acest subiect”. Să mori tu ? Dacă era viu, era clar care ar fi fost răspunsul.

– Suprimarea știrilor libere de către CNA: România TV a fost amendată de CNA după ce anunțase moartea lui Mihai, încă din Ianuarie 2016.

– Treaba suspect de nebagată în seamă cu operația. La noi e invazie de jurmaliști și reporteri la orice operație de bătătură facuta prin Africa a vreunui manelist sau ‘instalatoare’, dar la operația lui Mihai nu a mișcat nimeni nimic. In plus, nu au comunicat cine-i doctorul care a efectuat operația. Ca doctor nu m-ar tenta să despic un moș de 95 de ani care e pe moarte. Dacă ar fi fost o operație reușită, ar trebui ca toate știrile internaționale să răsune cu asta, iar doctorul sa fie recunoscut și premiat.

– Refuzul vizitei ‘Principelui’ Nicolae. Nicolae a dezvăluit recent că a fost a şaptea oară când a încercat să-şi vadă bunicul şi că s-a confruntat cu un refuz. Totodată, acesta a mai subliniat că niciodată nu a existat o explicaţie pentru interzicerea permisiunii de a-l vedea pe Mihai. „A fost a şaptea oară când am venit şi am încercat în ultimii doi ani. Şi da, nu am avut ce să fac în afară de a încerca. Am încercat cu scrisori, am încercat la telefon, faţă în faţă, am venit aici, am stat patru ore în faţă la un moment dat. Am vrut să îl văd pe bunicul meu, am întrebat, totul a fost un răspuns negativ” a spus acesta.

        În al doilea rînd, se insista cu titula de ‘Rege’. Pai care rege ? A abdicat. Asta înseamnă că nu mai are nici un fel de drept, de privilegiu special, statut sau titlu, că a renunțat la avere și la orice dobîndit în timpul domniei. Adică este un cetățean de rînd … atît și nimic mai mult. Deci cu ce ocazie denumiri gen Mihai I al Romaniei sau Regele Mihai I ? Mihai I de România este titulatura corectă, deoarece România este acum o Republică, nu o Monarhie. Că tot veni vorba de Monarhie … Monarhia constituțională este specifică regatelor, unde Regele are scopul de a sluji poporul și țara, nu invers. Poporul și tara se află deasupra, nu Regele. Actul arăta cam așa:
Act Ab

        Referitor la problema cu moștenitorii și scandalul pe care tot se insistă la tembelizoare, treaba este mult mai simplă decât pare: Comform constituției regale, în cazul monarhiei, pe tronul României nu pot accede decât barbații. Roialitatea se transmite pe linie parternala (adica doar prin barbați). Moștenirea drepturilor, titlurilor și proprietăților se face doar pe linie paternala. Deci tanti Margareta este egală cu zero și nu moștenește nimic. Ca a delcarat-o Mihai ca moștenitoare este nul pentru ca nu s-a facut asta în mod legal. Interesant este ce s-a întîmplat cu ‘Principele’ Nicolae. Se pare că duetul Margareta-Dudă au vrut dinadins sa scape de el…și au reușit. Date fiind cele explicate mai sus, este cam clar ca ei au luat decizia în acest caz.

        Peste toate astea, mai există și problema fiului nelegitim. Dieter Stanzeleit susţine că este rodul unei iubiri dintre o englezoaică, pe nume Nerissa Lions, cu Mihai – o iubire transformată apoi într-o căsătorie secretă, căsătorie care ar fi făcut ca mariajul Regelui cu Regina Ana să fie unul ilegal. Dieter a publicat şi o carte despre pretinsele lui origini, fiind şi subiectul unui documentar realizat în Germania. Povestea este destul de lungă, curtea de justiție din Germania ne dîndu-i dreptate, dar proba pricipala nu a putut fi prezentată și anume un test ADN care să lămurească din prima și incontestabil situația. Germanul a cerut în anul 2010 unei instanţe din Bucureşti să-l oblige pe Mihai să ofere o probă ADN care să stabilească dacă este sau nu tatăl acestuia. Bineînteles că a fost refuzat. Dacă nu ar fi fost înrudiți, nu ar fi fost nimic de ascuns, nu ?

        În al patrulea rînd, aşa-zisul ‘rege’ Mihai I nu a avut legitimitate ca rege, deoarece Constituţia democratică din 1923 fusese înlocuită cu Constituţia carlistă , iar partidele politice desfiinţate. (Ca un prim act de guvernamânt, regimul dictaturii carliste a abolit vechea Constituție si a adoptat, în februarie 1938, o Constituție nouă, care, fără să fie aprobată de popor, consfințea dreptul regelui de a conduce țara, restrîngea în mare măsură libertațile cetățenești, menținea parlamentul ca organ legislativ dar supus voinței monarhului, nu poporului, desființa votul universal și atribuia regelui întreaga putere executiva în stat, precum și dreptul de a fi conducatorul suprem al armatei. Pe 31 martie 1938 a survenit lovitura decisivă aplicată de Carol II formaţiunilor politice. Este publicat decretul-lege de dizolvare a asociaţiilor, grupărilor şi partidelor politice. ) România era, totuşi, monarhie constituţională. Lui i-a fost predat postul de rege tocmai de către acest uzurpator şi a fost menţinut şi tratat ca rege de generalul Ion Antonescu doar de formă, fiindcă avea nevoie de a-şi întări autoritatea dobîndită abuziv şi a conduce mai bine cu ajutorul decretelor ‘regale’. Dar statul român i-a oferit lui Mihai I atît de multe încît deveniste putred de bogat (a primit printre altele Castelul de la Săvârşin din Arad, palatul Elisabeta de la Bucureşti, domeniul Peleş şi complexul turistic Furnica. Aceste domenii sunt compuse din zeci de mii de hectare de pădure, castele şi alte imobile. Fostul Rege a mai cerut, pe lângă aceste proprietăţi, o despăgubire de 30 de milioane de euro cu titlu de compesaţie pentru toate domeniile care nu mai pot fi retrocedate. Din fericire, acest act a fost blocat prin vot de către deputaţi.). Mihai I a fost clasat de Forbes printre cei mai bogaţi suverani ai lumii, cu o avere de peste 210 milioane de euro. În același timp, el se plîngea ca nu are bani de intreținerea casteleului Peleș. Deci avem de-aface cu un lacom care a devenit milionar din banii statului român, adică pe munca şi sacrificiile unui popor pe care l-a vândut cu prima ocazie.

Despre Carol II Uzurpatorul vom vorbi în alt articol.

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18650 Li-Ion Chargers Round-up (6+ slots): Xtar vs Foxconn vs Trustfire – [En]

        I have reviewed 3 of the 4 high slot count chargers available currently on the market. All chargers have been intensively used on the long term, so the conclusions should be quite relevant. Here they are:

        Xtar WP6 6-slot
+ Does not use clamps
+ Comes with spacers
– Can overheat batteries
– Dual channel
– Charge status reset
– Does not charge NiCd
– No over-disharge recovery
Overall Rating: 47/100

        The Xtar WP6-II is the first charger with more than 2 slots I used. The case design is pretty good. LEDs are red when charging and turn green when cells are fully charged. The charger does not use retractable clamps, which makes putting in cell and removing them pretty easy. For other than 18650 Li-Ion cells (10440, 14500, 14650, 15270, 16340), it uses spacers which are very well designed (can be stacked). I truly prefer such a system compared to clamp-based one. Clamps can even damage you when using them (seriously, some are very hard to open and when you remove a battery you must be quite careful not to injure yourself). The power adapter for this charger is external, goes directly into the outlet.

Unfortunately, this charger has some bad things in it’s design. Even if there are 6 slots, they work in pairs, that means when you use all 6 slots, you will get half the current per cell you would get if using up to 3 non-consecutive slots (1,3,5 or 2,4,6). Also, that means you will have to charge cells of very similar total and current capacity in consecutive slots (1,2 ; 3,4 ;5,6). Doing something like putting a cell with 4.0V (almost charged) in slot 1 and a 3.3V (completely discharged) in slot 2 would not be good at all.

Another big issue is excessive overheat of cells. There is no protection, and if you use cells that are partially not good (that do not charge at full capacity), the charger will persist in trying to charge them to full and cause excessive overheat, up to setting them on fire. So don’t let it on over-night if your cells are in bad shape.

A little bug I encountered with this charger is that sometimes if you remove one or 2 cells, some of the others’s LEDs will turn green even if the cells are not charged and you will have to re-insert them (kind of a forced refresh). Then LEDs turn back to red and cells keep charging. This bug does not happen when inserting new cells, only when removing some of the charged ones.

The biggest problem I actually had with this charger it was that at a point it just started dying. It started to reset after a few minutes (cell status was re-read, just like re-plugging it in). Then more often and then it didn’t work at all. Upon investigation I have determined that one component on the main-board was overheating. It was a small (1mm) resistor of 47 Ohms. I did some further testing and everything else looked fine. So (rocket surgery time), I took a good old Soviet-era 4 cm length by 1cm in diameter 47 Ohm resisor (the dark green one, electronics fans will know), I replaced the inferior one, making sure that part is the last thing that will even burn out in that circuit. Worked fine ever since and I’m glad it wasn’t a complex I.C. damage because I would not had a replacement for that. Regarding battery spacing, you can charge 6 18650s with thicker casing, but no 26650 can fit in.

Given all the above, I rate the Xtar 47/100.

        Foxconn Universal Intelligent Charger 8-slot

+ 8 Slots
– Battery contacts
+ Charge level LEDs
– Charge level inaccuracy
– Can overheat batteries
+ Battery Space
+ Independent channels
+ Can charge NiCd
+ Over-discharge recovery
Overall Rating: 83/100

        The Foxconn Universal Intelligent Charger 8-slot I ordered on-line from UK, since it was not available in my country at the time I wanted to acquire one.
Having 8 truly independent slots was gold for me, since I sometimes charge batches of dozens or more cells. What I liked about it is that it has charge level indicators. There are 3 nice orange LEDs that indicate load level. They could use a redesign, though. Unfortunately, they are not calibrated properly and most of the time the load level will be at 2.5/3 (2.5 meaning 2 LEDs on and 3rd blinking). If you put in an over-discharged cell, the 1st LED will blink, but as soon as the voltage reaches the one of discharged cell, the indication will be 2.5 again, even if the cell is completely empty. I found a trick here: reinserting the cell after a few minutes will make the charger reevaluate the indication and it will start showing 1.5/3, which is way better compared to showing 2.5 for hours. Now those indications could really use some tweaking. Instead of showing 0.5/3, 1.5/3 2.5/3 and 3/3 (fully charged indication) they should also have 1/3 and 2/3 indications (1 LED on and 2 LED on with none blinking).
As a general recommendation, when you add cells that are near empty or over-discharged, re-insert them after about 1 or 2 minutes and you’ll have a more accurate (well, actually less inaccurate – to be grammatically correct) charge level indication.

Since I’m talking about LEDs, I’d like to mention that the charger also has a general power indicator blue LED. This one is pretty powerful and can light your room at night, so you may be bothered by this if you want to sleep with the charger in the same room. But, that LED light can also help if you want to change batteries at night. You won’t see cell colors in their true color but you won’t have to turn the light on just to change cells. Since it can be an advantage and a disadvantage in the same time, I don’t take this LED in the overall rating consideration. If you can’t sleep due to its bright light, put a coin on it and it’s ‘fixed’. The power adapter is brick-style (like notebooks have). Cell overheating is lower compared to the Xtar.

Battery spacing is quite enough to accommodate 18650s with larger casing. You can fit in 26650s if you skip the near-by slots. Another advantage of this charger is that it can also charge NiCd, but I do not use it for thins since I consider NiCd obsolete. What I did not like about this charger is that the battery contacts are a little weird. At the (+) pole, there’s a pin on the lower side and one a little higher, but in the case of recycled 18650s both pins can land on the case instead of the (+) center area of the cell, while the metal center of the cell is not in contact with the charger pins . Nothing a little moving around can’t usually fix.

Considering all this, I rate the Foxconn 83/100.

        Trustfire TR-12 6-slot

– Sometimes needs retries
+ Internal power adapter
+ Independent channels
+ Can charge NiCd
– Can overheat batteries
– No over-discharge recovery
Overall Rating: 72/100

        I got this from a local dealer, since needed one more charger because I was in the process of repairing the Xtar. I find it good overall, all 6 cells are independent and charge quite well. There is no space for anything extra, though. If the casing of your 18650 cells is custom and a little thicker, you will have some trouble fitting in the cells. LED indications are standard, green for ‘charged’, red for ‘charging in progress state’.

A convenient thing for this charger is that the power adapter is internal, built-in the charger casing, which is pretty comfortable since you only have the power cord externally. This is though problematic if you need to change the adapter, but for the average user the comfort is a plus. The charger can also charge NiCds, but as I said I’m not personally interested in this. It’s a plus though, so it counts. Unfortunately the charger cannot recover over-discharged cells. Would of been nice if it could.

I found bug in this one too: sometimes cells are just not detected on the 1st try. Although you insert them, the LED does not turn RED and charging does not start. Does not happen too often and when it does it’s mostly for nearly charged cells. It’s fixable by re-connecting the cell (may take 2-3 retries). This charger can also overheat cells in bad shape, but not as fast as the Xtar.

Taking all capabilities into account, I rate the Trustfire 72/100.

        In conclusion, my pick out of the 3 today would be the Foxconn, mostly due to the possibility of over-discharge recovery.


I did not had the opportunity to review the Klarus C8 (no avaialbility near-by at this point), which could of been a worthy contendent to the other 3, but if I do in the near future, I will add it to this round-up.

I did not take pricing into consideration. Prices were too variable to make some relevant averages. That, combined with various special offers, made me think it’s better to ignore this aspect.

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The Most Retard Developer Award of 2017 – [En]

        Guess what (I bet you didn’t), the Most Retard Developer (MRD) award for 2017 does not go to Microsoft and it’s specially granted earlier this year. It goes to ADOBE !

    Even if M$ failed in several important things this year, like the W10 update that kills powershell or the recent W7 patch that makes Explorer crash when you access network shares, it’s not even close to the total epic fail Adobe constantly did.

    Ever since Acrobat DC (down-loadable crap) appeared we can safely say that the .PDF format is currently unusable. They should now state that the PDF initials come from Partially Damaged Format at least.

    – Acrobat DC crashes intermittently on Windows – Valid for all post-Vista Windows versions. It just crashes and that’s it. No official fix.

    – Acrobat DC freezing or “not responding” Windows 7 Professional – General freeze/crash on Windows 7. Fixes rarely solve anything. No official solution.

    – Acrobat DC does nothing on Windows 10 – When trying open PDF file in the reader, nothing happens – neither error message nor any other information. Only the “Adobe Acrobat Reader DC (32 bit)” process exists, running in the background (shown in windows task manager). No interaction with user from the reader.

    – New PDFs do not open in browsers anymore (any of Edge, IE 11, Opera, Failfox, Chrome). And no, it’s not the fault of broswer devs. The cannot permanently catch up with infinite stupidity.

    – New PDFs can’t be saved/opened as anything else and show the ‘Please Wait …’ message.
Official answer on this was ‘Adobe has made the decision that since very few non-Adobe products support these special PDF files, that it is better to show this message — and require the user to download Adobe Reader or Adobe Acrobat — than it is to let the PDF viewer try to render the document. ‘
Oh really ? So you abuse and prevent other options while yours is totally not functional. You fully deserve your MRD award. It is highly unlikely that anyone else will be able to accomplish this level of stupidity.

    – Updates of A-DC break it, preventing opening of any .PDF. No fix.

    – Lack of any nearly decent performance. On top/high end systems with Windows 10, A-DC takes more time to open a .PDF of under 1MB than a top game takes to load a few GB of itself into memory. How can something of dozens of GB load faster than something not exceeding 1MB ?

    – Macbooks have the same mandatory Update and then always crash problem. Nothing more to be said here.

    – Acrobat DC crashes when trying to print. Oh well … it was to be expected. Since you can’t open in anyway, it’s logical for printing not to work, just in case by some wonder you manage to view it.

Adobe reader cannot process PDFs correctly to print them This one is re-occurring once every few patches and many times it remains broken. Practically, you start to print a document, the command actually gets to the printer but nothing is printed because the inferior Adobe reader cannot correctly process the content of their own files. This fortunately has a fix: you can open the .pdf from a browser (assuming it manages to read it) with the ‘print as image’ enabled. That way, the content is no longer interpreted wrong and the document will print. Nothing to miss-translate in a standard image after all.

So let’s recap – we get updates that make your documents unusable, we get prevented to alternatively open or convert them, we can’t print them, we get crashes and errors at every step, support is practically non-existent, performance is a disaster.

        Conclusion: If someone sends you a document with created with the latest version of Adobe’s .pdf spawner, almost everyone will fail to open it.

        Adobe, you have a big ‘up yours’ from users. Be warned that even companies start to give up on this format since it became the exact opposite of what it suppose to be: something portable. How can you even say it’s portable since you need permanent and constant updating for this crap to actually work ?

        You format is starting to die, just like that p.o.s. flash player did some time ago which you still manage to maintain on life support. Just to re-confirm your incompetence: how can you redirect your flash player download page towards something totally unrelated and let it like that for months ?

        May you have a slow and painful death, Adobe !

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Vaccinare vs Conventia de la Nuremberg si lipsa drepturilor omului

        După sfîrșitul celui de-al doilea război mondial, în August 1947, a luat naștere cel mai important document din istoria eticii mediale: Convenția de la Nuremberg. Acesta a fost creat pentru a preveni experimentele pe oameni, în genul celor făcute în timpul războiului. Totuși se dorește neaapărat continuarea pînă la capăt și impunerea prin orice mijloace necesare a experimentului numit ‘vaccinare’.

Documentul are următorul conținut:

        1. Consimțământul voluntar al subiectului uman este absolut esențial. Acest lucru înseamnă că persoana în cauză ar trebui să aibă o capacitate juridică să își dea consimțământul; ar trebui să fie situat astfel încât să poată exercita puterea de alegere liberă, fără intervenția oricărui element de forță, fraudă, înșelăciune, constrângere, supra-decizie, sau o altă formă ulterioară sau constrângere sau forțare. Ar trebui să existe cunoștințele și înțelegerea elementelor subiectului, care să permită o înțelegere și decizie clară.
Acest ultim element de impune ca, înainte de acceptarea unei decizii afirmative de către subiectul experimental, trebuie să se facă cunoscută natura, durata și scopul experimentului; metoda și mijloacele prin care urmează să se desfășoare; toate inconveniențele și riscurile ce se pot aștepta în mod rezonabil, precum și efectele asupra sănătății persoanei, care pot veni, eventual, de la participarea sa la experiment.
Obligația și responsabilitatea pentru stabilirea calității consimțământului revine fiecărui individ care inițiază, direcționează sau se angajează în experiment. Este o datorie personală și responsabilitate, care nu poate fi delegată de răspundere.
        2. Experimentul trebuie să fie desfășurat astfel încât să se obțină rezultate fructuoase pentru binele societății, ce nu se pot obține prin alte metode sau mijloace de studiu și nu sunt întâmplătoare și inutile în natură.
        3. Experimentul trebuie să fie bazat pe rezultatele experimentelor pe animale și o cunoaștere a istoriei naturale a bolii sau a altor probleme în studiu, să asigure că rezultatele anticipate vor justifica efectuarea experimentului.
        4. Experimentul trebuie să se desfășoare astfel încât să se evite orice suferință fizică și mentală inutilă și a prejudiciului.
        5. Nici un experiment nu ar trebui să se efectueze, în cazul în care există un motiv a priori de a crede că moartea sau rănirea va avea loc; cu excepția, poate, în acele experimente în care medicii experimentali servesc și ca subiecți.
        6. Gradul de risc care trebuie luat nu trebuie să o depășească pe cel determinat de importanța umanitară a problemei care urmează să fie rezolvată prin experiment.
        7. Preparate corespunzătoare trebuie făcute și facilități adecvate cu condiția de a proteja împotriva chiar a posibilități îndepărtate de vătămare, invaliditate sau deces.
        8. Experimentul trebuie să fie efectuat numai de către persoane calificate științific. Cel mai înalt grad de calificare și de îngrijire ar trebui să fie impus prin toate etapele experimentului celor care desfășoară sau sunt angajați în experiment.
        9. Pe parcursul experimentului, subiectul uman trebuie să aibă libertatea de a aduce experimentul la capăt, dacă el a atins o stare fizică sau psihică, ce face să i se pară a fi imposibil de continuat experimentul.
        10. Pe parcursul experimentului, cercetătorul științific responsabil trebuie să fie pregătit pentru a termina experimentul în orice etapă, în cazul în care are motive să creadă în exercitarea bunei credințe, în calificare superioară și judecata atentă necesară pentru el, că o continuare a experimentului este de natură să conducă la un prejudiciu, invaliditate sau deces la subiectul experimental.

        O vaccinare obligatorie, asa cum se vrea a se impune la noi in țară, incalca toate cele 10 puncte ale convenției de mai sus.

        1. Nu ar exista, evident, dreptul la alegere liberă.
        2. Rezultatele presupuse ale vaccinării se pot obține și s-au obținut cu o eficență ridicată prin alte metode, în timp ce rezultatele vaccinării in sine sunt cel puțin discutabile atât din p.d.v. medical cât și istoric.
        3. Rezultatele anticipate și nici măcar cele finale nu au reușit să demonstreze vreodată că justifică efectuarea experimentului.
        4. Există suferință atît fizică cît si mentală, începînd de la înțepătură, continuînd cu diverse efecte negative și culminînd cîteodată cu deces.
        5. S-a întamplat în nenumărate rînduri să existe rănire permanentă sau deces. Programul de compensare pentru rănirea cauzată de vaccinare a plătit în SUA peste 3 miliarde de dolari daune.
        6. Gradul de risc este evident mai mare in cazul experimentului numit ‘vaccinare’. Puținele studii direct comparative demonstreaă clar că probabilitatea apariției unei probleme de sănătate, rănire permanentă sau moarte este mai ridicată in cazul vaccinării comparativ cu lipsa acesteia. Alte studii cu privire la conținutul general și/sau particular al dozelor fac doar să confirme gradul foarte mare de risc.
        7. Nu s-a luat vreodată vreo măsură împotriva efectelor demonstrate a fi negative, din contra, s-a insistat mai mult pentru impunerea efectuării experimentului.
        8. Calificarea celor ce implementează experimentul este cel puțin îndoielnică. Dacă întrebăm un bucătar despre ingredientele folosite intr-un produs, acesta va știi să le listeze exact. Un pediatru habar nu are de conținutul unei doze de vaccin.
        9. Subiectul experimentului evident nu are această posibilitate de a renunța.
        10. Cei ce impun experimentul, în loc să judece efectiv, ei doar impun mai departe un ordin primit, fără a verifica în vreun fel validitatea presupunerii care le este transmisă.

        Concluzia este una sinistră (cum a declarat inclusiv Curtea Supremă Federală Germană despre cazul vaccinării anti-pojar).

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Top 7 things that are very bad in Windows 10 – [En]

Many wonder if Windows 10 is really worth it. Let’s talk about a few bad things in it.

        1. Reports everything (spies you)

The number one bad thing on the list is of course the ‘spy everything’ policy.
This is talked about all over the internet tech communities and has been proved hands down as real so there is no need to go into details.
If you want to counter it, you have a lot of work to do. You will have to adjust most if not all of the following: Telemetry, Biometrics, Handwriting Data Disclosure, Handwriting Error Reporting, Application Telemetry, Inventory Collector, Steps Recorder, Lock Screen Camera Settings, Cortana (you can’t terminate this too easy), Localization, Sensors, Web Search, Windows Media DRM Internet Access, App Notifications, Password Button Ads, Advertising ID, SmartScreen Filter for URLs, Write information, Access to Language List, Acquaintance, Prompts Feedback, Windows Update Distribution, Windows Update for Other Products, WiFi Sense, Windows Defender, Automatic Windows Updates, OneDrive, Automatic Driver Updates.
And then App Access to Localization, Camera, Microphone, User Accounts Info, Calendar, Messages, Wireless Connections, Uncoupled Devices.
If you don’t tweak/disable most of the above, you will be spied and spammed. The only way for Windows 10 to be safe is to have it never go online, which defeats the purpose if its design.

        2. There is no off choice
You have no choice when it comes to what Windows 10 does. Even if you tweaked most of the above, you most likely did it for nothing.
I’ve made a simple test: installed W10, disabled all options that you have a GUI off button for, then just updated the fresh install.
After the update, 1/3 of the turned off settings were back on. So practically, any update can do what it wants to your settings. They are not yours to control anymore.
Also, the default browser seems to re-become Edge every time certain updates are applied. Again, your choice is irrelevant. Edge wants to be the default browsers and it sets itself like that at any time it feels so.
Another related to this absurd thing is that the update system suddenly decides you need to restart the computer. Or even worse, you need to shutdown a notebook to leave somewhere and there’s no such option: you have shutdown and update instead, which can take quite a lot. This system is absolutely retard no matter how you look at it.

        3. The drivers problem
Related a lot to the above is the driver system. Many drivers get updated in a bad manner, with a bad version. This, of course, can cause anything from small glitches to BSODs.
A driver that causes Windows 10 not to start anymore can and will likely be installed at a point and there’s nothing a normal user without tech knowledge can do about it.
Removing a newer driver in favor of an older one is a badly designed process. You just can’t do that directly. You will need to uninstall the current driver, then use a basic one (like in the case of video cards), then install the version you want. Of course, that requires auto update for drivers not to be enabled, an issue that is difficult to actually accomplish (explained above why).

        4. The play-dead ‘skill’
If you manage to turn off enough not to get over-spied, W10 will start playing dead. It will say it’s hurt even if everything is fine. There are many situations when this is encountered and things can go very far.
As a far-end example, after actually disabling the auto-update on a W10 home, after a while USB sticks suddenly stopped being detected with no reason whatsoever. Same sticks, clean, one day they all work, next day they don’t anymore.
No amount of official chipset or USB, USB Root Hub or any kind of related drivers made them work again. But, enabling auto-update and clicking ‘search for updated driver’ on the unrecognized USB devices quickly fixed the issue. So all of the official intel drivers were bad, but Windows Update magically made it work with an ancient driver taken from who knows where ? I find that suspicious at least.

        5. Not recoverable
If previous windows versions were easier to debug, in the case of W10 you don’t even have start-up control. You know … the old F8 menu. You can’t even start in VGA mode in case of trouble.
If you boot your system from a disk to try a recovery, the options there almost certainly do not work. I tried all of them in several systems on several scenarios.
No recovery option worked in any of the cases. Each time, a complete reinstall was necessary.
That was for unencrypted, non-EFI-enabled systems. If you add those to the picture, you practically have a near null change to make an actual successful system recovery. Best thing you can actually do is to spawn a command prompt and try your own fixes when possible.

        6. Bad partitioning
No matter what you do, you can’t make Windows 10 install on a single partition. It always spawns junk partitions. On windows 7, if you had a correctly set available partition, no other trashing of your hard drive was done. Not in Windows 10. It takes at least one chunk of your drive anyway.
For anyone that cares about the content of it’s drive, this is just bad practice. As a general recommendation: never install W10 on the same physical drive where you keep your data. W10 increases a lot the risk of you loosing everything on a drive, even if you have multiple partitions. From my perspective, partitions are obsolete anyway.

        7. Kills classic hard drives
I’m working in IT industry and help friends whenever in need when it comes to IT&C. Relatively recently, a weird thing happened: I had an unusual high number of incoming notebooks with ‘not working anymore’ label.
In all cases, no exception whatsoever in about the last year, they had only one issue: hard-drive with bad sectors in the exact location where Windows 10 resides. The only thing in common for those notebooks was that they had Windows 10 on them.
In most of the cases, it was an upgrade from Windows 7. As you tech guys should know, the amount of files in Windows has always increased exponentially.
A random test count: Fresh Windows XP SP3: 9k files, 300 dirs ; 3-months Windows 7 SP1: 72k files, 13k dirs; Years-old Windows 7 (since SP1 release date): 91k files, 22k dirs ; Fresh Install and Updated Windows 10 112k files, 23k dirs.
This could explain the excessive wear of older HDD. But it does not explain why a new HDD also gets damaged. I had 4 cases when in a very short time new HDDs (4 different models from different manufacturers) were damaged in the exact same W10 area. For one of them, I checked the uptime using the S.M.A.R.T. attributes. It was a little over 600h (that’s 25 days of uptime). That’s really low for a new HDD, don’t you think ?
Considering what I have seen, I’d never let W10 install on a notebook HDD. I’m curious to make a test with SAS server drives, to see what happens. I’ll update this if I manage to do some long term testing. But it’s clear that W10 was designed to be used with SSDs.

There are other inconveniences when using W10, but those are the ones that I find by far to be the worst.

        Do you remember what happened when that failed experiment called Vista arrived ? No-one wanted it. So they enforced it by using 2 tactics: no new Direct X for XP (which practically obliged all gamers and many other graphic-related categories to switch to it) and the OEM deals, where the OEMs were obliged to delivered notebooks with Vista and remove the XP drivers from the availability list on their websites.
After the fix called Windows 7 (actually v6.1), other experiments like 8 and 8.1 failed, so they needed to change tactics. They tweaked some more and made 10, which was free to be upgraded to by anyone with a compatible system and older OS. That still works today even if the offer is officially over.
But since nothing is for free, the data they gather with 10 is millions of times more valuable compared to the actual price of the OS. Are you willing to make the deal ? Does having W10 actually help you with something ? Consider that before upgrading.

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